ITEN

Research & Development

From the initial idea to the creation of the cosmetic product.

The Cosmetic Research & Development service is designed to support companies, brand owners, pharmacies, start-ups and manufacturers in the creation of new cosmetic products or in the optimisation of existing formulations.

Developing a cosmetic product requires a technical, regulatory and practical approach. It is not enough to create an effective formula: it is also necessary to evaluate the product type, raw materials, stability, packaging, laboratory testing, regulatory compliance and manufacturing feasibility.

Thanks to experience in the cosmetic and regulatory sector, each project can be followed in a structured way, from the initial concept to the development of the finished product.

Development of New Cosmetic Formulas

Cosmetic formulation starts with the analysis of the product objective, target consumers and market positioning.

Each project is evaluated according to:

  • product type;
  • area of application;
  • desired texture;
  • cosmetic function;
  • active ingredients;
  • sensory profile;
  • claims to be communicated;
  • price positioning;
  • sales channel;
  • target market.

This phase allows an initial idea to be transformed into a concrete formulation project, consistent with the brand’s objectives and the technical requirements of the product.

Identification of the Product Type

The first step of development consists in clearly defining the type of cosmetic product to be created.

Products may include, for example:

  • face creams;
  • serums;
  • cleansers;
  • toners;
  • body products;
  • hair products;
  • beard and shaving products;
  • balms;
  • scrubs;
  • masks;
  • lip products;
  • hand and foot products;
  • natural cosmetics or products with a high percentage of ingredients of natural origin.

Correctly identifying the product type makes it possible to properly define the formula, raw materials, manufacturing method, testing plan and packaging.

Research of Raw Materials and Suppliers

The choice of raw materials is a key step in the development of a cosmetic product.

The service may include:

  • research of functional ingredients;
  • selection of raw materials compatible with the formulation;
  • evaluation of suppliers’ technical documentation;
  • verification of the regulatory compliance of ingredients;
  • analysis of any restrictions of use;
  • evaluation of formulation alternatives;
  • support in selecting qualified suppliers.

Ingredient selection must take into account not only cosmetic performance, but also safety, stability, commercial availability, cost and compliance with current regulations.

Formula Cost Evaluation

During development, it is important to evaluate the cost of the formula in order to make the product sustainable from both an industrial and commercial point of view.

The analysis may take into account:

  • cost of raw materials;
  • percentage of use of ingredients;
  • formulation complexity;
  • production costs;
  • minimum order quantities;
  • packaging;
  • required tests;
  • final product positioning.

This phase helps balance quality, performance and economic sustainability of the project.

Preparation of Samples

Once the formulation proposal has been defined, laboratory samples can be prepared.

Samples allow the practical evaluation of:

  • appearance;
  • colour;
  • odour;
  • texture;
  • absorption;
  • spreadability;
  • sensory profile;
  • preliminary compatibility of ingredients;
  • possible adjustments to the formula.

The sampling phase is essential to refine the product before moving on to testing, pilot production or industrial scale-up.

Optimisation of Existing Formulas

The Research & Development service may also concern products that have already been formulated but need to be improved or updated.

Optimisation may be useful to:

  • improve the texture;
  • reduce the formula cost;
  • replace ingredients that are no longer available;
  • adapt the formula to new regulatory restrictions;
  • improve stability;
  • modify the preservative system;
  • make the formula more consistent with a new market positioning;
  • update the product according to new claims or commercial needs.

This approach allows targeted improvements without necessarily starting the project from scratch.

Packaging and Labelling Support

Packaging is not only an aesthetic element. It can also affect the stability, preservation, use and perception of the cosmetic product.

Support may include:

  • selection of the most suitable packaging for the formula;
  • evaluation of product-packaging compatibility;
  • assessment of packaging functionality;
  • support in defining label texts;
  • verification of cosmetic labelling compliance;
  • review of claims, warnings, directions for use and mandatory information.

The choice of packaging must be consistent with the formulation, target consumers, sales channel and regulatory requirements.

Laboratory Testing

During product development, specific laboratory tests may need to be planned.

Depending on the type of cosmetic product, the following may be evaluated:

  • stability testing;
  • challenge test;
  • microbiological analyses;
  • patch test;
  • product-packaging compatibility test;
  • heavy metals or nickel analysis;
  • specific tests for sun care products;
  • tests to support claims.

The choice of tests is defined on a case-by-case basis, according to the formula, intended use, packaging and claims to be communicated on the product.

Development of the Manufacturing Method

A cosmetic formula must not only be effective and stable, but also reproducible during production.

For this reason, the development phase also includes the definition or optimisation of the manufacturing method.

This activity may include:

  • definition of production steps;
  • order of addition of raw materials;
  • processing temperatures;
  • mixing times;
  • stirring speed;
  • in-process controls;
  • critical production parameters;
  • instructions for transfer to the laboratory or manufacturer.

A clear manufacturing method helps reduce errors, non-conformities and differences between the laboratory sample and the industrial product.

Industrial Scale-Up

Industrial scale-up is the transition from the laboratory formula to production on a larger scale.

This phase is delicate because a formula that is stable and valid in the laboratory may require adjustments when produced in larger quantities.

Scale-up support may include:

  • transfer of the formula to the manufacturer;
  • technical discussion with the laboratory or contract manufacturer;
  • verification of formula reproducibility;
  • possible adaptation of the manufacturing method;
  • control of critical parameters;
  • evaluation of first pilot or industrial batches.

The objective is to obtain a finished product that is consistent with the approved sample, stable and compatible with the selected manufacturing process.

From Project to Finished Product

A well-structured cosmetic project requires the coordination of several activities: formulation, raw materials, packaging, testing, regulatory documentation, production and market placement.

The Research & Development service allows these phases to be managed in an organised way, reducing the risk of errors, delays or unsuitable technical choices.

Each project is assessed according to the company’s objectives, product type, available budget, target market and applicable regulatory requirements.

Technical Support for the Development of Your Cosmetic Product

Developing a new cosmetic product means transforming an idea into a product that is safe, stable, compliant and feasible on a production scale.

Technical support during the Research & Development phase allows the project to be built on solid foundations, with proper selection of raw materials and suppliers, planning of the necessary tests and support through production and market placement.

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